johnt
Junior Member
Posts: 83
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Post by johnt on Aug 21, 2014 8:51:01 GMT -5
Hi guys This is a build I'm working on, about to be painted. It's Monogram/Revell '40 Ford Coupe, scale 1:25. I started by adding dents, using a technique I saw Per Olav Lund use. Most of the model was covered with a wet paper towel except for a hole. I held the model over a candle flame for a few seconds then pushed in the dent with a round object. (don't use a finger, it will leave your finger prints!)  The grill was a solid chunk of plastic so I made a new one.  The door and boot (trunk) were cut open. A needle scribe is really good for this, plus adding some white spirit in the groove helps soften the plastic.  Flat tyres were made by Gordon Ferguson, many thanks sir!   Next some paint will go on, see you again.  Cheers JT |
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Post by desertmodeler on Aug 21, 2014 13:55:21 GMT -5
Great work all round John and some new tricks to try out. For dents I have been using a Dremel to thin the styrene first before softening with Tamiya extra thin then carefully pushing in the dents with a rounded end tool. The heat idea sounds like a much quicker route. Look forward to watching you work your magic with the paint.
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Post by jamesn on Aug 21, 2014 21:46:33 GMT -5
Ah nice subject, please keep updating with how to.
Dents look really well. |
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johnt
Junior Member
Posts: 83
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Post by johnt on Aug 29, 2014 8:10:48 GMT -5
Many thanks for your comments guys! Here's some progress. I tried this new primer, very quick and easy. But very fine, it doesn't cover any little imperfections.  So this next coat of Hull Red was airbrushed on pretty thick, to cover sanding stick scratches etc. It also left a little texture which is good.  Then progressive coats of hairspray and different shades of rust, using reference images or real rust buckets as a guide. After each colour I chipped most of the top colour away leaving just bits here and there.   The final coat sealed with dullcote. Unfortunately a little glossy, but not to worry.  More to come, see you again shortly. |
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johnt
Junior Member
Posts: 83
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Post by johnt on Aug 29, 2014 8:11:48 GMT -5
Next I used the Windex technique. So first just a light coat of hairspay on the roof and upper areas that will later be fully exposed. None anywhere else, then some rusty brown on the sides.  Next coat, straight on and no hairspray.  Finally grey.  This images follows some chipping away of the hairspray at the upper areas, plus some scratches added with a sanding stick, careful don't go too deep.  Next I mixed windex, (an ammonia based glass and household cleaner) with water 50/50. Then I used a small stiff paint brush damp with the liquid to remove some of the paint. This is why I covered the earlier paint work with dullcote, as it is more resistant to windex than the paint.  That's it for now, see you later when there's more done! Cheers JT |
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Post by desertmodeler on Aug 29, 2014 23:33:37 GMT -5
This is looking spectacular already John. There are some lovely gradations in the eroded paint. Controlling the amount of paint in the top coat is another skill I need to master as your results speak for themselves. From the above pics it looks like the base rust tones are lightened and have a more pronounced warmer hue after the dullcoat is applied. Was that just down to the dullcoat or did you add more filters/paint before sealing? Must also see if I can source some Windex to give this technique a bash. Will "Windolene" do the same job I wonder. Anyway, top work. I'm looking forward to seeing the next steps.
Pete
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Post by dogfish7 on Sept 2, 2014 10:20:16 GMT -5
Fantastic work JT!
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johnt
Junior Member
Posts: 83
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Post by johnt on Sept 8, 2014 9:56:46 GMT -5
Thanks guys! Hi Pete, yes the dullcote changes the finish a little. I's hard to compensate for this but it's not a big deal. The dullcote is important because it is resistant to windex and stops it ruining the rusty base layer. I'm not sure if other products are similar, the only way to know is to try it I guess. Here's some progress. More of the same techniques as before; hairspray technique for sharp chips, windex technique for softer chipping.  Cheers JT |
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Post by desertmodeler on Sept 8, 2014 11:58:46 GMT -5
Looks great John. I love the look of these old cars with mismatched doors and grungy paintwork. Thanks for the advice too.
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Post by dogfish7 on Sept 26, 2014 16:10:17 GMT -5
Congrats JT on making the high lights on the Dr. Cranky Show!! Well deserved in my book. 
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johnt
Junior Member
Posts: 83
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Post by johnt on Oct 14, 2014 8:46:41 GMT -5
Hi folks Thanks for your replies! Sorry to be late getting back here, this is finished.
Mig Jimenez's new company AMMO make some enamel washes which were used too. Light Rust wash can be seen in streaks and various stains, plus another called Rust Streaking effect
The front and rear windows are kit items, the broken side window is clear plastic from some product package. Some of the chrome items came already chromed in the kit (such as the light housings), others were painted Mr Color Silver and rubbed with Uschi van der Rosterns chrome polishing powder. If too bright, the chrome was dulled down a light spray of dullcote, and here and there some patina was added by sponging a little grey acrylic paint. 
Thanks for looking, cheers! JT |
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Post by dogfish7 on Oct 15, 2014 9:08:40 GMT -5
One of the best " How To's " I've seen! Very inspirational! Also one of the best model car weathering I've ever witnessed!
Awesome!!
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johnt
Junior Member
Posts: 83
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Post by johnt on Oct 27, 2014 8:57:45 GMT -5
Hi Bruce, many thanks buddy!
Cheers
JT
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Post by desertmodeler on Oct 29, 2014 14:06:47 GMT -5
My hat is duly doffed John. That is a spectacular exposition of your talent. It is crying out for an equally superb base though. Any plans?
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johnt
Junior Member
Posts: 83
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Post by johnt on Nov 3, 2014 9:30:17 GMT -5
Hi Desertmodller, thanks mate! I have one or two ideas; maybe on a trailer, towed behind a rat rod. Or perhaps a yard scene beside on old abandoned house. If I do one of those you'll probably see it here Cheers JT |
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